How do I remove the rear brake drums on a 1999 Dodge Ram Van 1500 ?

After removing the wheel and tire, remove the clip from one of the studs. Bang on the drum and try to pull it forward. If it won't move, remove the rubber plug from behind, and adjust your shoes inward, with a brake adj. tool, and then try pulling the drum off.



http://www.freeautomechanic.com/brake-drum-brakes.html

How to change rear brake pads on a 2001 Mazda Miata

Question:
How to change rear brake pads on a 2001 Mazda Miata. I can't get the caliper to fully retract so I can put on the new pads.

Answer:
Sometimes you need to remove the brake fluid reservoir cap. This will allow the fluid to move so the caliper piston can be compressed. This happens when fluid has been added at any point.

Brake Replacement Step by Step with Photos

I have a 89 ford escort that has been setting for 10 years.

Question:
I have a 89 ford escort that has been setting for 10 years. want to get it going again but am having brake problems. Replaced brake booster. both rear wheel cylinders and shoes, both front calipers, master cylinder and cleaned the lines and I still don't have good brakes. I have to stand hard on the brake pedal to stop but it will not stop as fast as it should. Could it be the brake pressure control valves locates on the bottom of the master cylinder or is it something else. It just doesn't stop like it should in case of need to.

Answer:
Below is are quick diagnostic steps for hard brake pedal. You have done most everything but we need to take it a step further. Either the new booster is bad(it happens) or you do not have sufficient vacuum at the booster most likely caused by an engine vacuum leak. Since the car has been setting for some time it is more than possible for there to be cracked hoses, etc that are creating a vacuum leak. A higher idle than normal is a classic description of a vacuum leak.

Brake pedal feel is firm, but brakes lack sufficient stopping power or fade
1) Check the operation of the brake booster and brake booster check valve. Replace worn or failed parts.
2) Check brake linings and brake surface areas for glazing and replace worn or damaged parts.
3) Check for seized hydraulic parts and linkages, and clean or replace as needed.

issue with the brakes. The pedal is soft and tends to go to the floor

I am in Australia and we have a 97 Chevy Silverado that has been converted to right hand drive. We have an issue with the brakes. The pedal is soft and tends to go to the floor. We have changed master cylinders, pads, discs etc. etc. and now have bypassed the ABS and find that they work much better, but still a soft pedal. Our mechanic is wondering if there is a specific way of bleeding the ABS as this is where there seems to be some air that cannot be gotten rid of. Normal procedures are not working (normal in Aus anyway...) It is not an uncommon problem I believe in converted vehicles, but aside from being unsafe, our truck is now unsaleable until the ABS is reconnected and the pedal is firmer. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Already Tried: Bleeding brakes new master cylinder new discs new pads bypassing ABS

Answer:

The ABS system on this vehicle has always been problematic. There are a couple of things that will help when you bleed this system.

This is a two person procedure and may require a pint or more of brake fluid per wheel.

The old fashioned manual method with modification is best here, starting at the right rear wheel use a clear tube on the bleeder in a small glass of brake fluid crack the bleeder, have the person in the cap depress the brake pedal halfway never more and hold, the other person closes the bleeder and you both wait 15 - 20 seconds then the pedal is raised, the bleeder is cracked and the pedal is pressed, bleeder closed, pedal held halfway down etc. until all air stops coming out of that corner. Continue around to all the wheels in the same manner.

Once you have run a gallon of fluid through use a Tech2 scanner or a scanner that allows you to operated the automated bleed procedure in the ABS computer.

After doing the automated bleed procedure once go back and re bleed the wheels manually.

There are accumulator pistons in the ABS hydraulic unit that may be leaking, pull the small rubber cap from the two at the bottom of the unit and slide a small screwdriver in the hole until it bottoms on the piston and have a helper step on the brake pedal if the screwdriver is pushed out the piston is moving and the hydraulic unit is junk and must be replaced.

These systems are soft low pedals when they are working properly and have been the bane of many a mechanic over the years I will be glad to see the last of them in the junkyard.

car is shaking badly when I brake

Question:
My car is shaking badly when I brake...especially braking on hills. My guess is that my rotors are bad. I have a 1998 4-cyl. Toyota Camry and I would like to know how much I should expect to pay if the rotors need to be replaced.

Answer:
Rotors installed would be around $100.00 and the Brake pads installed with premium pads would run around $130.00. So parts and labor around $230.00 +tax for complete job. Keep in mind some shops charge a shop supplies fee...

Toyota Prius Hybrid Brake Noise 2004-07

Some 2004-07 Toyota Prius hybrids may produce an annoying squeaking sound when the brake pedal is applied or released. Toyota says the noise is most audible when the key is in the Ready mode with the vehicle not moving. It seems that a defective brake actuator assembly is the likely culprit.

Before condemning the actuator, however, try bleeding the brake system. If the noise goes away, you’re done with the fix. If the noise remains after getting out that last belch of air, replace the brake actuator with an upgraded unit, Part No. 44500-47090.

99 olds alero is shuttering when the brakes are applied

99 olds alero is shuttering when the brakes are applied. I have replaced rotors and pads and still shakes. It does have a broken wheel stud on one of the front wheels. Also has 147,000 miles. Would wheel hubs need replacing?

Answer:

There may be an issue with the hub bearings. There are two ways to check a hub bearing. One is to swerve a bit left than right while driving about 15-25 mph and listen for a whirring noise and the noise will change pitch as you swerve. For hub bearings that are in worse shape, Simply jack up the front end and grab hold of the tire and try to wiggle it top to bottom, any play or movement at all is from a failed hub bearing.

Another thing that can cause this is a bad spot on a tire. Rotating the front tires to the back and test driving it should let you know if this is the case.

One missing wheel stud will not cause an issue.

How to trouble shoot a 1982 Chev K20 power brake booster problem?

Brake pedal feel is firm, but brakes lack sufficient stopping power or fade
Check the operation of the brake booster and brake booster check valve. Replace worn or failed parts.
Check brake linings and brake surface areas for glazing and replace worn or damaged parts.
Check for seized hydraulic parts and linkages, and clean or replace as needed.
VACUUM BOOSTERS Most power brake systems use a vacuum booster to assist braking.
Vacuum is good for a lot of things, like sucking gas through a carburetor, opening and closing airflow doors in a vehicle's climate control system, and for providing extra muscle for braking. But to assist braking, it takes a lot of vacuum.
How can something take a lot of nothing? After all, vacuum is the absence of atmospheric pressure. The answer is the higher the vacuum, the greater the atmospheric push to fill the void. As some famous scientist once said, "Nature abhors a vacuum." What he meant was as soon as you create a hole in the air (vacuum), the surrounding air tries to rush right in to fill it back up. So the push that a vacuum brake booster gives to the master cylinder is actually atmospheric air pressure.
At sea level, air pressure is 14.7 lbs. per square inch, which equals about 30 inches of vacuum on a gauge. The average engine can't pull that much vacuum, so the most intake vacuum you're going to read is about 20 to 22 inches. Most engines pull a steady 16 to 20 inches of vacuum at idle. One exception is a diesel, which has no throttle to create a restriction and thus no intake vacuum. So diesels have to use an auxiliary vacuum pump if they have a vacuum brake booster.
How the brake booster uses vacuum to provide power assist is amazingly simple. The original "Master-Vac" power brake booster that became the predecessor to virtually all vacuum boosters today was patented back in the 1950s by Bendix. The booster housing is divided into two chambers by a flexible diaphragm. A vacuum hose from the intake manifold on the engine pulls air from both sides of the diaphragm when the engine is running. When the driver steps on the brake pedal, the input rod assembly in the booster moves forward. This blocks off the vacuum port to the backside of the diaphragm and opens an atmospheric port that allows air to enter the back chamber. Suddenly, the diaphragm has vacuum pulling against one side and air pressure pushing on the other. The result is a forward push that helps shove the push rod into the master cylinder for power assist.
The amount of power assist that's actually provided by the booster depends on two things: the size of the diaphragm and the amount of intake manifold vacuum produced by the engine. The larger the diaphragm, the greater the boost. An 8-inch booster with 20 inches of engine vacuum will provide about 240 lbs. of brake assist.
From this, it should be obvious that the vacuum booster needs two things to do its job: a good vacuum supply from the engine, and a good diaphragm. A vacuum supply hose that's loose, leaky, collapsed or restricted may not allow the booster to receive enough vacuum to provide the usual amount of power assist. Consequently, the driver will have to push on the brake pedal harder to get the same braking as before.
A restricted vacuum hose will cause boost to drop off when the brakes are applied in rapid succession. This happens because the blockage slows the return of vacuum in the booster.
To check engine vacuum, connect a vacuum gauge to the supply hose that runs from the intake manifold to the booster. A low reading (below 16 inches) may indicate a hose leak or obstruction, a blockage in the exhaust system (plugged catalytic converter, crushed pipe, bad muffler, etc.), or a problem in the engine itself (manifold vacuum leak, bad valve, head gasket, etc.).
The condition of the diaphragm inside the booster is also important. If cracked, ruptured or leaking, it won't hold vacuum and can't provide much power assist. Leaks in the master cylinder can allow brake fluid to be siphoned into the booster, accelerating the demise of the diaphragm. So if there's brake fluid inside the vacuum hose, it's a good indication the master cylinder is leaking and needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Wetness around the back of the master cylinder would be another clue to this kind of problem.
To check the vacuum booster, pump the brake pedal with the engine off until you've bled off all the vacuum from the unit. Then hold the pedal down and start the engine. You should feel the pedal depress slightly as engine vacuum enters the booster and pulls on the diaphragm. No change? Then check the vacuum hose connection and engine vacuum. If okay, the problem is in the booster and the booster needs to be replaced.
Vacuum boosters also have an external one-way check valve at the hose inlet that closes when the engine is either shut off or stalls. This traps vacuum inside the booster so it can still provide one or two power assisted stops until the engine is restarted. The valve also helps maintain vacuum when intake vacuum is low (when the engine is under load or is running at wide open throttle). You can check the valve by removing it and trying to blow through it from both sides. It should pass air from the rear but not from the front.
Replacing a vacuum booster is a fairly straight forward job. All you have to do is disconnect it from the brake pedal on the inside and unbolt the master cylinder. The push rod that runs from the booster into the back of the master cylinder must have the specified amount of play, so check your service manual for the particulars. Most require a small amount of play so the master cylinder will release fully preventing brake drag, but some late model GM and Bendix applications have zero play.

Source: aa1car.com

2001 Audi A4 trouble starting

I have an Audi A4 2001. sometimes when I start it, after moving it, just cant start even though the radio lights came on. But after say one hour, when I try to Start the engine, it comes on.What could be the problem? And the brakes are hard to press.



Response:

Thus could be caused by a bad starter assembly. Best way to test this is to check for voltage at the starter when it will not start…. if it is getting voltage and not turning over, you guess it = replace the starter.



Brake pedal feel is firm, but brakes lack sufficient stopping power or fade

1.Check the operation of the brake booster and brake booster check valve. Replace worn or failed parts.

2.Check brake linings and brake surface areas for glazing and replace worn or damaged parts.

3.Check for seized hydraulic parts and linkages, and clean or replace as needed.

http://www.freeautomechanic.com/brakes.html

How to Replace Front Brake pads and Rotors ?

Question:
I have a 2003 Ford Mustang V6. I need front brake pads and rotors. I would like to know how to replace the front brake pads and front brake rotors myself. Can you help me?

Answer:
Step by Step Front Brake Pad and Rotor Replacement need to be followed to ensure that your brakes will NOT squeal when your job is completed. Follow the link for step by step instructions that include actual photos taken during a front brake job performed on a 2003 Ford Mustang. The basic idea is to remove the pads and rotors, compress the caliper piston, lubricate where needed and reinstall.

I tried replacing my front brake pads

Question:
I tried replacing my front brake pads and passenger side rotor. I bleed the brakes and replaced them the same way I took them off, but now the front brakes aren''t working at all and the brake lights and other lights in the car are on. I have to push the brakes to the floor to get them to stop and it feels like its just not catching. My car is a Nissan Armada 2005. What did I do wrong?

Answer:
You do not need to bleed brakes when just replacing pads and rotors. More than likely you bled them wrong. You should take it to a local garage and have them bled properly and all will return to normal. The reason your foot goes to the floor and the lights are on is there is air in the system. Bleeding the brakes properly requires two people. One to pump the brake pedal and hold it down while the other releases the pressure from each caliper and tightens it back before the pedal is pumped again. This is done until no air comes out, just fluid And requires a constant eye on the reservoir to make sure the fluid level stays full during the entire process. One wheel is to be done a t a time and you start with the furthest wheel away from the master cylinder.

Again, have it done. It is cheaper than if you run into the back of a car.

brake lights come on and go off

I have a 2004 Malibu and the brake lights come on and go off while i'm driving Just wanted to know where the problem is.



Response:

That Dash Light "BRAKE" doesn't always indicate a problem. If your Parking Brake is loose this light may flash as you drive or even remain on. If this light ONLY comes on while Applying the Brakes THEN you have a problem of either adjustment/replacem ent or Air in the system. A GOOD Indicator is if you must "Pump Up" the Brakes. This Light is controlled by a Proportioning Valve and NOT Cheap and Rare to go Bad.

Asbestos Brake Pads

In years past automotive brake pads were made with Asbestos. This material, Asbestos, worked very well. The Asbestos material made little no no noise at all and had no wear affect on the brake rotors. Brake pads made today are not made with Asbestos. The EPA or Governmental regulations no longer allow it. "Asbestos is made up of microscopic bundles of fibers that may become airborne when asbestos- containing materials are damaged or disturbed." ( source: http://www.epa.gov/asbestos/ ) EPA maintains a listing of the laws and regulations applicable to asbestos. There are still some brake pads out there that contain Asbestos but it is a smaller amount as compared to the pads of the past.

Brake pads made today are not as giving as the Asbestos brake pads were. The pads of today cause noise when used on old style rotors and so the rotor manufacturers make the rotors out of a different material. This reduces noise, but at a cost. The rotors also wear along with the pads. This means you are looking at replacing the rotors virtually every time you do a brake job as the rotors generally are worn past safety specifications provided by the manufacturer.

For the latest OSHA rules on asbestos dust Click Here.
For EPA guidelines on how to minimize your exposure to brake dust, Click Here.

Left rear brake Sticking

Question:
I have a 1988 Ford Mustang w/ rear discs and no apparent ABS. Replaced calipers and pads. Left rear brake fails to release after using E-brake. Replaced caliper again. Same deal.

Answer:
Sounds like the problem is in your Park brake cable. Disconnect them. pull the lever and measure. Release the lever and measure to make sure they are releasing. If not, replace the cables and make sure they are routed correctly.
If it fails to release without using the park brake, then you need to replace the caliper hose.(most common)

the brake pedal goes to the floor

Question:

We have a 1995 Ford Mustang, the brake pedal goes to the floor with no braking power and no system leaks. What could be the problem?

Answer:

This is a classic indication of a failed master cylinder. This is from the internal seals of the master cylinder allowing fluid to pass internally.

Anti-lock brake problem

Hopefully someone here can help me. I have a 2003 Chevy Astro Van and everytime I use my brakes my anti-lock brakes kick in with their grinding just as I am almost at a stop. It is really annoying. I had someone look at my brakes a few weeks ago. He told me there was nothing wrong that my brakes are all over 50% and that it's just the anti-locks working when it's slippery. Well, it happens ALL the time, even on dry blacktop. I hope this is nothing serious or expensive. Any help is greatly appreciated.





Thank you!



Response:

1) my 07 f550 does the same thing and ford dont know why but has been doing this for 170000 miles with no other problems



2) Number one cause of this issue is a failing Speed sensor. The speed sensors are located inside the front hub bearing assemblies. This means you have to replace the entire hub bearing......



Or, you can just remove the ABS fuse or Relay to deactivate the ABS system. The ABS will no longer work which means it will no longer give you a problem when it is dry out. Just won't work in the wet, icy roads either. Once you save up the money, you may want to have the ABS system fixed.