It over heated for like 5 minutes blowing white smoke out the back and will not turn over anymore

QUESTION:
I have a 1998 Oldsmobile Regency with a 3.8L V6 SFI engine. It over heated for like 5 minutes one day then started blowing white smoke out the back and will not turn over anymore. It has been tested for a blown head gasket and that isn't what it is. A mechanic has it now and has replaced the Plenum gasket, injector O'rings, Lower intake manifold, and spark plugs, the plugs being the last thing tried. It started twice for him but when he turns it off it wont turn over again. We also tried a new battery. Someone told me something about a restart button. Sounds crazy to me but I'm no mechanic. Already Tried: Injector O'rings, Plenum gasket, Lower intake manifold, Battery, Spark plugs. This car was babied by my grandmother never missed an oil change or anything. Plugs being the last thing tried... Or the newest part on the car rather.

ANSWER:
The first test that needs to be performed is a compression test. This is how you determine if the head gasket is blown. The initial description of what happened is classic to a blown head gasket. Take the guess work out of it and let the compression test prove it. All cylinder pressure should be within 20 psi of each other, if not... you have a blown head gasket or cracked head(cracked head is not very common).

If the starter just doesn't turn over then it can be tested by checking for power at the starter with the key in start position. If it has power and does nothing (no click, no nothing) then the starter needs to be replaced. If it gives a hard click. then the engine may be vapor locked from coolant entering the cylinders.... so back to the first thing first. Have a compression test performed(which should have been the first thing done).

If the mechanic says he can not perform this, then you need to take it to a different shop.

ac not working

Question:
I have a alero Oldsmobile gls 2.4 and the ac is not working. leak test negative pressure is fine compressor not kicking on

Answer;
Most common issue is low freon. Even if it is low on freon it can still have pressure:

Now if you are certain it is not low on freon, then it is electrical. The first test to do would be to apply power directly to the compressor to see if the clutch pulls in. If it does not: Replace the compressor/Clutch (most come together).

If it does pull in then follow these steps to diagnose the issue
STEP by STEP Air Conditioning Troubleshooting

2001 olds 4.0l codes p0101,p0121,p0171,p0174,p0300

P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance


P0121 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Range/Performance Problem

P0171 System too Lean (Bank 1)


P0174 System too Lean (Bank 2)

P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected


More than likely these are all related to a failed MAF Sensor and when you have it removed(since it is connected to the throttle body) clean the inside of the throttle body around the butterfly. This should take care of your problems. The codes will need to be reset after the repairs are made to get the check engine light to go out.

1993 Olds Achieva Power Steering leak -variable or not?

I have an Olds Achieva, 1993 with the 3.3L V6 in it. The power steering has leaked since I got it, along with the oil. Come to find out the company who worked on it in Jackson didn't do the work correctly but now it's my problem. The oil filter wasn't tight, and they didn't put the power steering pump back together correctly. You could see where they wrenched on it quite a bit, but it was leaking by the sensor. I got a GM drawing, it shows 3 gaskets or seals in there, most likely O rings, but it only had 1. We replaced the 1 it originally had (before I seen the drawing) and it still leaked. We can see where 2 of them could go, but not 3.



My questions are, how do you tell if you have variable steering or not? I read during some research if it does have it, there would be a sensor, without no sensor. If this is true, mine has it. There's a sensor and a hose connected to the same area, which is where the leak is.



I also would like to know, if this sensor should spin freely? It has since we got it, and Autozone claimed there should be a clip to hold it in place. The GM drawing shows no clip, and the guy there said he didn't know if it should spin. The knob (for lack of a better word) at the end, is all tore up where you can see they took pliers to it, but it does not loosen or tighten.

My last question is, does anyone know where I can get this assembly? I called a couple junk yards, they all say it comes with the pump only, no reservoir or connections, and they won't sell me them. I am almost afraid to ask what GM wants for this thing! They wanted 50 bucks for the O rings! Any help is appreciated!



Response:

1) There are 2 types of ways for the sensor to be mounted. 1 is that it screws into the connection. The other is held in by a retaining collar. With the retaining collar the sensor itself will have o-rings to stop any fluid from escaping and will rotate with resistance when NOT running. What's the name of the shop so others avoid having these problems.

2) That would explain, or could explain, why the GM drawing shows 3 O rings and we can only see where 2 might go. It is leaking at the sensor area, so that O ring may be missing, but we've not been able to get it off of there either, and didn't want to force it. You could see where it was chewed up from pliers, so we don't know if it's broken or not, and I'm sure it'll be expensive from GM. Since they want 45 bucks for the O rings themselves and you can buy them for 3 bucks at the parts store!

I'm hoping to find another unit like it at a junk yard, and just swap it. Since I'm unsure how to fix it, what to order, how it goes together etc. I can't afford to take it to a shop, we replaced the power steering, alternator and water pump ourselves, what a chore that was!

(The Water Pump)