Advice on Questions to Ask When Buying A Car

2009 Smart fortwo

When Purchasing a New Vehicle there are a few things you may wish to do before walking into the car dealer. Know the questions to ask when buying a car. Be sure you are prepared with all the information you can get. Spend time deciding what it is you want and stick to it. There are a few tips listed below to help you prepare for your next vehicle purchase.

The best advice I can give you is to take your time when looking for a car, and don't make any rash, emotional car buying decisions.
Every car salesman you come into contact with will have only one thing on his or her mind; to get you to buy a car "today!" These people work under the assumption that you will never come back, so they have to close the deal while you're in there the first time.
Don't give into the pressure. Take your time and sleep on it . . . for several nights! You'll be amazed at how different your perspective will be on a car deal after a couple of days.
Don't let the car salesperson talk you into giving them any .... read more

Which Online Repair Manual is Better, Mitchell or Alldata?

It is cheaper to fix the old one than to buy a new one. But with today's cars you need detailed information and wiring schematics in order to repair your Car, Truck or SUV. In other words, you need an Online Auto Repair Manual. We can all agree on that part of it.



Both Online Auto Repair Manuals , Mitchell and Alldata, stand to be great sources of information for car repair procedures, wiring diagrams, torque specifications, belt installations, Service bulletins and more. One major difference is the price. Both cover 1983-2012.

1. Mitchell : minimum purchase is $9.99


2. Alldata : minimum purchase is $12.95 if you use coupon code 1MOTR2587

If you have an older car you can purchase a Vintage Manual DVD from Mitchell that covers 1960-1982

1994 Chevy S-10 Died while driving and won't start

I have a 1994 Chevy S-10 2.2L Engine. Drove fine to work and on the way home out of nowhere the engine died and won't start. I hit the key and it turns over but now it sounds different and will not start. It has spark and i tried starter fluid and still won't start. What could it be?



Answer:

The 2.2L engine has a common problem with failing timing chain tensioners that break and cause the timing chain to jump at at once. this throws off the valve timing and causes no compression. In most cases you can just install a new timing chain and tensioner and problem solved. In some cases not only does the chain and tensioner need to be replaced but the valves can sometimes get bent, usually the exhaust valves. So after you replace the timing chain and tensioner perform a compression test, if no compression is found, you can be sure the next step is removing the head to see how many valves need to be replaced. Don't forget to replace the head bolts at the same time as they are one time use only bolts.

How can I become a Car Mechanic ?

When you become interested in learning all that you can about being an Car mechanic, Nascar mechanic or just want to know more about Car repair, Automotive mechanic school is the place to start. Here are a few to get you started :
NASCAR Mechanic Colleges - Features NASCAR Technical Institute ... Auto Mechanic School. Marine Mechanic. Motorcycle Mechanic. Aviation Mechanic. NASCAR Mechanic
Government Statistics on Automotive Service Technicians and Mechanics - The work of automotive service technicians and mechanics has evolved from mechanical repair to a high technology job.
Race Car Mechanic School - Our beginning and advanced courses are included in your course fee as well as participation in our monthly race series. The Racing Schools at Infineon Raceway are a favorite in the USA. From go karting to formula racing, ESPN Jim Russell Racing can put you in the driver's seat.
More Schools

Where Can I Ask A Car Question?

You will find that all you have to do is type your car question in the box provided and click the tab at the bottom of the box. Follow the step by step instructions. There are mechanics online 24/7 ready to answer your question. You can decide if you want to pay them for there time and how much you would like to pay them if at all. its up to you. You can even choose the mechanic you wish to have your question answered by.

what are possible reason for water getting in the engine

Some of the most common causes are a bad head gasket or depending on the vehicle it could be an intake gasket leaking. Some other causes could be a cracked head or a cracked block causing water to get into the engine. If it just a very little bit of water and you are not loosing coolant it could be just condensation. You should have the vehicle pressure tested and depending on the results from that you may need to do a compression test.

My car will not start every time

Question:

I have a 1994 Chevy S-10 with a 2.2L engine. It will not start every time I try. It does nothing when I turn the Key, the lights on the dash come on but nothing else. But, if I keep trying it will eventually crank over and start. What could be the problem?

Answer:

This is actually a classic description of a failed/failing starter assembly. What happens is on the inside of the starter there are contact points called"brushes". These contact points are what deliver electricity to the "armature"(the rotating part) and cause it to turn. When these brushes where down far enough then the cap the electricity has to jump becomes to great and makes it difficult to jump the gap.

The fix for this issue would be to have the starter replaced. The part runs about $75.00 for a remanufactured starter and around $125.00 for a new one with about an hour for labor.

Chevy Code 42

Had a customer bring in a 1989 Chevy Van G20, 5.7L with a stumble issue and intermittent stall. The check engine light was on .The check engine light codes can be Extracted without a scan tool. The code that was extracted was Code 42 : Electronic spark timing (EST) circuit fault.

A quick read of a great article on Code 42 that covers the specific components involved : The EST system consists of the ignition module, computer (ECM/PCM), and the connecting wiring.

Used a Multi-meter to test and check the wiring and found no issues, but what was noticed is the fuel injectors would click several times by themselves with the key off. This was a bit strange, but lead me to believe there had to be a short somewhere causing this and sure enough there was an internal short in the ECM. Purchased an ECM for the local parts house for just under $100.00 and replaced it. The engine no longer has the stumble and it no longer puffs smoke when you start it up (originally thought to be valve seals gone bad).

Customer happy!

Side note* I did try a new EST first as it was easy to get to and a quick test. It is located under the drivers seat along with the ECM.

Code P0506 - 2005 Ford Crown Victoria - low idle, stalling

Customer Complaint:
Intermittent stalling

Action Taken:
Test drove the car and was able to reproduce the condition. Also noticed a low idle.
Hooked up my Genisys Scan Tool and found a history code P0506. Checked Idle speed at 500 rpm, should be around 750 rpm

P0506 : Idle Control System RPM Lower Than Expected

Normally you would jump to the IAC ( Idle Air Control ) but this vehicle does not have one as it is Throttle by wire (electronic throttle control - ETC).

Description:
Vehicles with electronic throttle control (ETC) This DTC is set when the powertrain control module (PCM) detects an engine idle speed that is less than the desired RPM.

Possible Causes:
1) Air intake restriction
2) Exhaust restriction
3) Engine mechanical fault.
4) Damaged electronic throttle body (ETB)
5) Damaged PCM
This DTC is informational only and it may be accompanied by other DTCs. Diagnose other DTCs first. If other DTCs are not present inspect the intake air system for air restrictions and damage. If no concerns are present, clear the DTC and retest.

Solution:
I found carbon build up in the Throttle Body at and around the butterfly inside the throttle body. Some brake wash and a rag quickly removed the carbon build up. Tested, and Idle speed was up from 500 rpm to 800 rpm. Test drove and the vehicle performed as it should. Fixed!!

Code P0720, P0731, P1790,P0700

Customer Problem:

I have a 1999 Chrysler 300M with a 3.5L engine. My Check Engine light came on and at the same time I lost my dash gauges and it will not shift out of first gear.

Solution:

Computer Diagnostics done to extract the codes for the check engine light. The coeds were:

P0720 = Output shaft speed sensor error

P0731 = First gear incorrect ratio

P1790 = Fault immediately after shift

P0700 = Transmission fault code

Since this situation all happened at once it would make sense that they are related. After removing and testing the Output shaft sensor that is supposed to be at 800 ohms, and was showing completely open, the Output shaft sensor was proven to have failed. Replaced the Output Shaft Sensor ( $20.00 ) and cleared the codes. Test drove the vehicle and all is working normal. Customer happy.

2005 Toyota Tundra SR5 Estimate for Repairs

rack and pinion assembly, Rack Mount Bushings, Left & Right outer tie rod, and Left & Right upper control arm bushings. I need an estimate please.





I would definitely like to know how long each should take and if any of the time gets cut out because of another part of the repair. Just wanting to know if I'm getting hosed. (we are in the military and are over seas and we are told to be careful of the locals over charging us Thanks!)

 

Response:

 

rack and pinion assembly, Rack Mount Bushings, Left & Right outer tie rod, and Left & Right upper control arm bushings





I would definitely like to know how long each should take and if any of the time gets cut out because of another part of the repair.



The cost of replacing the Steering Rack is aout $1200.00 including both outer tie rod ends. Tie rod ends by them selves would be about $250- $300. The control arm bushings run about $145.00 per side so about $290 for both. So the entire service would run about $1490.00 Plus (shop add ons) plus tax. Some shops do not have ad ons, but most do... like shop supplies, etc. Be sure to ask up front so you are not supprised.

 

Reply:

 

Thanks! Actually, come to find out they were trying to screw us. Went to another shop and it was only the tie rod bushing (i think that's what he called it). It was a thick gasket looking thing in the center of the tie rods and it was just starting to get a little worn so there was very slight play. Cost us $132 for the repair, part, and an alignment. Thanks for the info anyways, but I'm Glad I didn't need it!





V/R

Gena

Engine fans not comming on. Overheating Ford Focus

I had problem with my cooling system. After I traced out, I found out that my cooling fan is not working properly. At first, I thought it didn't work at all. But after testing the relay, it is in fact, working. So I went to the Temp Sensor, thinking it has to be the problem. But the Auto Shop was unable to even locate the sensor, they really sucks. However, now I just notice it wasn't even the sensor's fault. The cooling fan will only turn on when the AC is on. And it will turn off as well. That indicates that the sensor gotta be working; if not the fan should either stay on or off the whole time/ it shouldn't cycle if it is not working. I am not really a electrical guy. Can any of you guys tell me where the problem is? I am suspecting the electrical wirings between the cooling system and the ac system are theultimate blame. Am I right?

Answer:
I have good news for you. The problem you describe, and in EXACTLY the way you've described it, sounds like your cooling fan blower resistor has burned out. This is NOT to be confused with your car's climate control blower resistor pertaining to the four speed settings. What is probably happening is you are not getting any LOW speed cooling fan operation, when commanded by the PCM. There are two cooling fans, as others have already posted. Each cooling fan has a two wire pigtail connector to it. Look BETWEEN the two cooling fans for a two wire connector exactly identical to the ones plugged into the cooling fan motors. This will be plugged into the resistor. To disconnect it, simply DEPRESS the metal clip, and pull to remove. Look for a burned out connector, as well as the resistor it plugs into. To repair this problem, you need to go to your local Ford dealer parts department to purchase the blower resistor and pigtail connector. Both of these parts are very inexpensive, even from the dealer. It is also EXTREMELY common on your car. Please keep me informed of your findings. Hope this helps.

Found this answer on Yahoo answers and was Dead On !!! Melted plug and all. Ordered parts from ford and all is well.

Coolant Leak - Land Rover

Customer Problem:
I have a 2002 Land Rover Discovery with a 4.0 L engine that only has 46,000 miles on it. It is leaking coolant and I can see it drip off the back of the valve cover at the rear of the passenger side but can not see or locate the source.

Solution:
Filled and pressure tested coolant system. After getting approval, removed the upper intake manifold to gain visual access and found the lower intake manifold gasket was leaking. Found after ordering the part from my local dealer that this is a common issue with this vehicle. Made the repair and customer is now happy!

Roaring Noise in Front End

Customer Problem:

I have a 2004 Saturn Vue with a V6 engine. When I drive I hear a roaring noise coming from the front end. It makes the noise all the time even if I brake. It seems to get worse if I turn or go around a curve.

Solution:

After a quick test Drive to confirm the issue, It was exactly as Suspected. The Front Wheel Hub Bearings were causing the noise. Replaced the front hub bearings and the noise is gone. The cost of the repair was $327.00 per side having used Timken hub bearings as they have a lifetime warranty. Customer is happy!

2006 Chevy 3500 High RPM Engine Code P0507

Customers Vehicle: 2006 Chevy G3500 Express (Box Truck)

Engine Size: 6.0L

Complaint: High Engine RPM and Check Engine Light On

Previous Work: New Map Sensor, TPS and Both Upstream O2 Sensors

Problem: Engine is idling at 3,300 rpm and will not idle down



Shop Work Performed:

1) Computer Diagnostics and Scan for Codes

    Code P0507 - Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected



Possible causes:

A vacuum leak : Leaking air intake after the throttle body, EGR valve leaking vacuum, A faulty positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve



Damaged/failed/dirty throttle body



Failed EVAP system



Failed IAC (idle air controller) or faulty IAC circuit

 

We used Brake Wash (flammable) to spray around potential vacuum leak areas and came up empty.  We hooked up a smoke machine to confirm there were no vacuum leaks and test was positive for no vacuum leaks.

 

We removed the throttle body and inspected and found an extremely clean throttle body. While it was of we cycled the key and watched the IAC valve to see if it was stuck. It looked like it wasn't moving as it should... but did move some. With our Scan tool attached, we could see the IAC circuit was not functioning as it should.

 

THE PROBLEM FOUND AND FIXED

 

We then Isolated the IAC wiring from the IAC valve and the pcm and checked continuity and found two wires had none going and if we wiggled the harness, sometimes it would. We found the two wires had broken inside less than an inch form the plug in at the IAC valve, We repaired the wiring by soldering them and tested.  FIXED!!!  Runs great and customer is happy....

 

Honda accord ex 2000 coupe, the accessory power outlet doesn't work

Question:

I have a Honda Accord ex 2000 coupe, the accessory power outlet doesn't work, fuse is OK

Answer:

there is a fuse wire on the outlet itself that can go out . but first check the socket itself and both fuses

2000 ACCORD - Accessory Power Socket Test/Replacement
1. Remove the center console.
2. Disconnect the 2P connector.
3. Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
· If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
· If the terminals look OK, go to step 4.
4. Turn the ignition switch ACC (I), and check for voltage between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals.
· There should be battery voltage.
· If there is no battery voltage, check for:
- blown No. 8 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box.
- faulty accessory socket relay.
- poor ground (G501, G581).
- an open in the wire.
- blown No.9 (20 A) in the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box.